Tilly carburetors are easy to restore.
Take them apart, soak in carburetor cleaner, bead blast, clean out the passages,
replace any broken parts, and put in some new gaskets.
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Places in the top to clean out with a piece of wire.
I use
a piece of 0.024inch MIG welding wire. |
12 |
This is the idle circuit.
Remove the 3/8inch welch plug, clean, and replace.
There
are 2 small holes to clean with a piece of wire here as well. |
3 |
Clean
this passage with a piece of wire. |
45 |
There are 3 lead
plugs that need to be taken out to clean the passages. I replace the
plugs with a piece of lead solder pounded in to seal it off. |
67 |
The
large hole in the center is where the main nozzle goes. I have had to
drill out about half the main nozzles. The drill bit is the passage for the
adjusting needle.
8 |
I sand the top of the upper casting and top of
the lower casting on a stationary belt sander to flatten them. The
upper casting top is often warped when the mounting bolts are
over-tightened. This is better than the Zenith which breaks off the
ears! |
910 |
Taps: 7/16-20 for float valve, 3/8-24 for main
nozzle, 5/16-18 for mounting bolts, 12-32 for main jet, 1/4-32 for idle
jet,1/4 pipe for gas inlet.
You won't find the 12-32 and 1/4-32 at your local hardware store. I
bought mine on Fleabay. A
couple of gaskets and the 3/8inch welch plugs |
910 |
On
the left is the float, the choke and throttle shafts.
On
the right is the float valve, main jet, main nozzle, adjusting needle, idle
needle, body screws, mounting bolts and lower plug |
1112 |
Gasoline Leaks
Sometimes
Tillys leak. Be sure and close the gasoline shutoff valve when you
park your Model A. Leaking gasoline is dangerous and can cause fires
and explosions!
Possible
causes of leaks are:
1-Sticking
float valve. Get a new float valve, especially one with a viton
plastic tip. A sticking float valve will cause the carb to leak
out of the main nozzle when the gas shutoff valve is opened. The entire 10
gallons of gas may leak out if the gas shutoff valve is not closed when the
A is parked.
2-Float not
set correctly. I set the float a little low at 1 1/8inch to try to
avoid leaking out of the main nozzle.
3-Picture 7
Drain plug. Replace gasket but be careful not to tighten too tight and strip
the threads as the casting is aluminum not cast iron like the Zenith.
4-Picture 7
The lead passage plug may leak (drill bit is show in the passageway.)
Peen the lead plug or replace it.
5-Picture 8
The lead passage plug may leak (drill bit is show in the passageway.)
Peen the lead plug or replace it.
6-Inlet
gasoline connecter. If it leaks here, try tightening the connecter but if
that doesn't work, get a new upper casting.
7- Upper
casting warped. This is a common problem that can cause leaks. I
take a hammer and beat on the upper casting with the upper and lower casting
screwed together. Works every time for me! You can also use two gaskets. |
Harder parts of restoration
- The main
nozzle can sometimes be difficult to remove and must be drilled out.
If find this on about half of cores. Start with small bits and work up
to larger ones. Chase the the threads with a 3/8-24 tap.
- The main jet
at the bottom of the float chamber may also have to be drilled out.
Chase the threads with a 12-32 tap.
- Mounting
bolt holes are often stripped. Use 5/16-18 helicoils, special tap, and
inserting tool to repair them.
- Choke arm
nuts. These are an odd size, 8-36. The parts houses have them. I
got mine at Graingers. |
How a Tilly works
· GAV
on the left with the driverr is the main gas control. It can block off
the gas from the bowl. Gas from the GAV flows thru the bottom horizontal
passage in the picture to the main nozzle.
Brass plug at bottom seals the main nozzle (not pictured).
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The top half shows the welch plug and the two small holes that go to the
throttle passage. This circuit is the idle adjustment. Air goes thru the
two small holes. At the bottom of the passage below throttle there is
also a small brass plug with a hole that goes to the air space of the
fuel bowel. The barely visible hole in the bottom middle of the vertical
passage is where the idle air adjustment screw is inserted into. |
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· Idle
screw is for air trim adjustment.
·
There is a metering
orifice opposite the idle screw that lets air into near the end of the
main nozzle barrel. This air is used to aerate the fuel in the main fuel
nozzle
· With
the car at idle, the throttle is closed and the throttle blocks off the
lower of the two small holes behind the welch plug (the top circle in
the picture) close to the throttle shaft. All the gas for idle is sucked
up by engine vacuum thru the vertical passage below the welch plug thru
an orifice in the small brass plug nearest the bottom of the top half
from the lower threaded end of the main nozzle in the lower half.
When the throttle is opened engine vacuum can now suck gas thru the main
nozzle. At the same time the lower of the two small holes (0.025 and
0.033 inches) behind the welch plug is opened and more gas flows as well
thru the idle circuit.
There is a metering orifice opposite the idle screw that lets air
into near the end of the main nozzle barrel. |
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The bottom half shows the small main jet in the fuel bowl and the main
nozzle. The horizontal passage near the bottom of the main nozzle is
plugged off with a lead plug. News to me was the end of the vertical
passage has a hole to the main nozzle passage. |
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The main
jet(0.040 inches) is in the bottom of the fuel bowl shown at the left
and meters the gas to the main nozzle or high speed jet shown on the
right. The 8 holes(0.030 inches) in the main nozzle or high speed jet
help to atomize the gasoline. Gas to the GAV is metered only by the GAV
as there is no jet to meter it in the fuel bowl only a hole |
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This is what the final product should look like. |
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